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Motorcycle and ATV Gearing Guide Details For more than 15 years, U.S.-based Vortex Racing continues to manufacture, market and sell top-quality motorcycle racing components for Motocross, Supercross, Road Racing, Flat Track Racing and Minibikes. Owned and operated by motorcycle racers and enthusiasts, Vortex focuses on absolute quality. Each of Vortex's race components is made to the tightest tolerances with the best quality materials in the industry. Vortex tests on the track with direct feedback from top professional race teams worldwide. Manufactured and induction-hardened to specific tolerances to improve concentricity and provide a stronger, quieter and longer lasting sprocket. Special zinc coating to resist corrosion. Drilled lightening holes to reduce rotating mass.
So i got my new tires today, and my new front sprocket (-1). I put it on one way and the teeth werent catching between the rollers on the chain and it would get all tight in one spot. So i decided to flip it around and its catching all the rollers but there is no smoothness to it rolling, especially in neutral. If i try to spin it it will for maybe a second and come to a stop. I am sorta lost on what to try.
Any ideas would be appricated. Edit, just to add, my chain is not tight, i do have good slack in the chain.
Putting a broom handle in the spokes would have been a good idea. My dad was on the rear brake while I loosened the nut and the brakes were slipping a little. We ended up lowering the bike off the stand and then holding the brake. That suckers tight. Anyways, I did get the sprocket on last night and took it for a ride this morning.
The bike definitly has more pep to it. I love how there is less engine braking now, making it a smoothier ride. Overall I'm happy with the performance now.
I'm actually scared to hit the throttle hard. Before I would hit it hard and be dissappointed in the pickup, now it feels good. I checked the speedo and I only seem to be off by 5 MPH at 70 MPH (so I read 75 when I'm going 70). Although I checked by having by dad drive next to me (on his Kawi Nomad) and seeing what his bike reads, but he probably has some error in his as well, but I'm ok with what my bike reads. I would have used my GPS, but I'm having problems with it right now. Dumb question here.What kind of tool you need to use when opening that bolt? I´ve seen that bolt only briefly.
To get the CS sprocket off you first have to remove the speed sensor which I think is held in place with a hex bolt. Can't remember the size but it's probably around 8 mm. After locking the engine in position I removed the CS sprocket nut with my large torque wrench and I think a 36 mm socket. Sorry I couldn't remember the bolt and nut sizes exactly, its been a while since I worked on the drive system.
If you have an air gun, the large nut comes off the output shaft easily. There's a lot of dried orange thread lock on it, which you should clean off and replace with lock-tite.
I just installed a 16T sprocket this evening, and all went well except for a strange problem with the clutch cylinder. I somehow introduced an air bubble into the line when I was working on the sprocket, luckily I have a vacuum bleeder but I hope it doesn't happen everytime I remove the unit to clean behind the sprocket cover.which by the way was FILTHY after only 5000kms. Programmed the speedohealer and went for a short ride.it's definitely a different beast. Wheelies in first gear are easy (too easy?) but the best change is that the bike is much happier at 80km/hr, around 6200rpm in 2nd gear, as opposed to being in that torque dip at 5500-5800rpm as it was before. Interestingly, the factory 17T sprocket is sandwiched between two thick (1/2') discs of hard rubber, resumably for some sort of noise dampening? I really don't know what it's for, but the aftermarket unit doesn't have it and as a result looks a lot smaller, and is certainly lighter by more than 1/2.Interestingly, the factory 17T sprocket is sandwiched between two thick (1/2') discs of hard rubber, resumably for some sort of noise dampening?
I really don't know what it's for, but the aftermarket unit doesn't have it and as a result looks a lot smaller, and is certainly lighter by more than 1/2.I was wondering about that too. Both the 520 CS sprocket from AFAM and the 530 from JT sprockets that I have don't have any rubber on them. I didn't notice any increase in noise when I swithed to the AFAM 520 kit.
How To Install Vortex Generator
I know this thread has been dormant for some time, but I installed two new sprockets this weekend - altered to 16/42 instead of 17/40 and I find the new JT engine sprocket without the rubber sides causes a humming sound. When I was cruising at about 100 km/h and let off the throttle enough to remain the constant speed it got loud. Loud enough that I could easily hear it over the engine in any gear. The dealer said I would hear some extra 'chain noise' from the new sprocket without the sound dampening sides but I never expected this.
I figured it would almost be more of a clicking sound. Would a Suzuki made smaller front sprocket have the rubber sides? My bike is mostly for city riding, but on that occassional trip on the highway the humming sound drives me nuts. Otherwise, I would suggest this mod to everyone, the acceleration boost is great, I don't find the wheel comes up when I don't want it to, but be prepared to spend a little more money on a speedohealer/yellow box because the speedometer becomes useless. With a factory error of roughly 8% plus the calculated 11% for up one/down two (If I remember correctly) puts the speedo 19% off, meaning 19% fast.
Going 100km/h would read at 119 etc. Also the odometer suffers as well meaning you lose resale value on a bike the reads more clicks than it has actually travelled.
Between the sprocket mod and the custom seat I just got, I honestly feel like I have a new bike, and it's better than it was when I bought it.
You're gonna have to decide whether you want to stay 530 or go 520. Realistically it makes no difference to you seeing as you had to ask this question. ( No offense just sayin. ) But it depends on what kinda money you want to spend also. Crack wpa2 beining. I say that because if you make the switch to a 520 conversion, you'll have to get a front and rear sprocket as well as a chain. I personally went with a 16t front sprocket and switched to a 520 setup.
Edited by BrianVS, 20 September 2016 - 06:23 PM. As stated in the thread, they're legitimate copies of the original standalone Network Administrator install type, and were archived for many years on good-quality CDs. Free windows xp sp3 download. This is just an experiment- I have several original XP CD's from Microsoft and specific computers. My post on the XP service packs is just that; the Service Packs.
That was on my 05'. When I had my 02' I had a 530 setup with two teeth up on the rear. Because I'm anal about this kinda stuff I'd say get yourself new sprockets all around and get a good chain.
You should also invest in a chain tool so that you can do the changes on your own. It's pertty simple. FYI: chain info. What's the difference between 520, 525 and 530 chains? The numbers indicate a chain's dimensions, tolerances, minimum tensile strength and other specifications, using a system instituted by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee. The JIS standard is very similar to chain standards developed by ISO, ANSI, DIN and others.
The first digit (4, 5 or 6) denotes a chain's pitch (the center-to-center distance between chain pins). Originally these numbers specified pitch in eighths of an inch (i.e. A 400-series chain had a pitch of 4/8, or 1/2 inch), but now metric dimensions are used.
A 400-series chain has a pitch of 12.7mm. A 500-series chain has a pitch of 15.875mm. A 600-series chain has a pitch of 19.05mm. The second and third digits indicate the chain's width, measured between the inboard surfaces of the inner sideplates. Originally these numbers specified width in eighths of an inch (i.e. A chain ending in '20' had a width of 2/8, or 1/4 inch, a chain ending in '30' had a width of 3/8 inch), but now metric dimensions are used. A chain ending in '20' measures 6.35mm between the plates.
If the number ends in '25' or '28', the dimension is 7.94mm. If the number ends in '30' or '32', the width is 9.53mm. Because wider chains are typically stronger as well, the second and third digits also indicate a chain's strength, relative to other chains with the same pitch. Higher numbers correspond to greater strength, i.e. A 525 chain is stronger than a 520. This additional strength is achieved through increased roller diameter, pin diameter, pin length and plate thickness.
Chain comes in a number of sizes. The more power a bike puts out the bigger the chain. Sometimes the next grade up in strength is just a wider chain. 428 and 428H are the same pitch, but 428H is a bit wider and stronger. 520, 525 and 530 are like that too. Pitch is the distance between two roller centers. Having the same pitch means they will all fit on the thinner sprocket.
520, 525, and 530 will all fit on a 520 sprocket, but a 530 sprocket will only fit a 530 chain. Except in emergencies, you should always match the chain size to the sprocket size. I did see those but never heard of stealth, just figured vortex cause i heard of it, do you have a stealth sprocket. Where in orlando are you? I lived there before joining the army Danny Trust me,you don't want to buy Vortex just because they have good marketing. I'm gonna go out on a limb without knowing exactly what you're trying to do and give you a little average motorcycle guy advice.: Get yourself a 16 tooth front sprocket, a D.I.D.
530 chain and a stock 530 Rear stealth sprocket. Go on ebay and find yourself a Pro Motion Chain tool so you can do it yourself. Then do a search on this forum for Chain Replacement in the 'How to' forum. You're probably looking for more bottom end 'umph' and that 16t sprocket up front will reasonably give it to you.
In the end you'll learn something new and you'll have a durable setup that's also lighter than stock. Just my.02 cents. Oh, I live in the Lake Nona area, but I was born and raised here in Orlando.
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